Proper Cat Health Care

With the high cost of medical care, most people take very seriously the option of having a health insurance plan of some sort for themselves and their family. But what about taking out health insurance for your family cat?

The veterinary bills to treat your family cat for a serious injury or illness can quickly become very expensive, especially if surgery or costly prescription drugs are required. These may be an unexpected burden on your budget, for example if your cat is hurt in an accident.

Some insurance companies will offer health insurance for pets, including several insurance companies that specialize in pet insurance. The terms often vary from company to company, so it pays to shop around for the deal that best suits your needs.

Most but not all pet health insurance policies set a deductible, which is the first part of a payment you must cover before the insurance cuts in. This might mean you have to pay the first $50 or $75, or some such amount, for each claim. It is expensive for insurance companies to administer many small claims, so they often will offer lower premiums in return for a deductible amount for each claim.

A deductible amount effectively says your insurance cover is for large claims rather than for every small health issue that arises. It means that even with pet insurance you will likely not be able to recover the costs of consultations with your vet for minor issues. It is, after all, the big unplanned vet bills that can be tough to budget for. Paying a small monthly premium for insurance as back up to cover them gives you peace of mind.

Insurance coverage may not be unlimited. Some pet insurers set annual or lifetime maximum pay outs that they will make for each pet covered.

Regular insurance premiums can add up to a large sum over the lifetime of your cat. In deciding whether to take out pet health insurance you may need to weigh up how much you are prepared to pay to care for your pet cat. Some people may prefer to put down a seriously injured or ill cat rather than incur the costs of nursing it back to health. They may argue it will never be the same again, and that it is best to start over with a new and healthy pet. Others are willing to pay whatever it takes to save a much loved pet or a valuable breeding cat.

The more willing you are to incur high costs to care for you pet, the more value you will see in taking out a pet health insurance policy.

Most pet insurance companies will not offer cover for pre-existing conditions, so it usually pays to take out cover early in the life of your pet. Younger cats are also generally more likely to be injured or to become ill than fully grown cats. As your cat ages you may find some companies will raise their premiums, and you may feel health insurance is no longer justified for an older pet.

Most cats that are kept just as pets are neutered or spayed at around three months of age. Often breeders will arrange for this to be done for you when they sell you the cat. Some pet insurance companies will cover this expense, but others do not see it as a health issue.

Before taking out a pet insurance policy you might consider checking that your preferred veterinarian will work with the insurer you have chosen. Some insurers impose caps on fees and other limitations that are not always popular with vets. You may even find yourself compelled to switch to another vet after taking out pet insurance, which may not be convenient.

Having pet health insurance for your cat is a choice you can make, but it can be expensive so you should make sure you are well informed before making your decision.

Establishing the relationship between you and your cat can either fall in place smoothly or take patience and time.

This article is not about how to train your kitten to rollover or sit. It’s about setting boundaries, such as him not jumping on the table or swinging of the curtains, using a scratching post as opposed to your speakers or that beautiful sofa you have. It’s about getting him to use the litter box instead of the inside of your closet or your best cozy comforter!

Our job as owners is to make the cat understand what we will and won’t accept. With setting your boundaries you are showing him that you rank #1 when it comes to hierarchy.

So how are you going to do that? It is common sense really… Make all experiences rewarding for your cat when he does something you want him to do, however it should not be such a pleasant experience if he’s doing something he shouldn’t be doing.

Here are some basic troubleshooting tips:

LITTER BOX TRAINING

When the majority of people see a wet spot on the floor, carpet or wherever it may be, their initial reaction is to go and get their cat, take him to the litter box and hold him down. Some people even rub the cat’s nose in it! This is by any means not acceptable, and most likely will have a bad impact on the cat’s psyche. If punished like this, he will associate the punishment with his litter box and avoid using it altogether. He also could get angry or anxious and lash out in some erratic behavior.

The best way to deal with litter box training is containing him to a space where it is large enough for him as well as his litter box. Just until he gets the idea that this is where he needs to do his business! It is best to put him in his litter box about 10 - 20 minutes after he eats. You may want to shuffle the litter around for him a bit, in clean litter of course! This gives him something to mimic. Although this usually comes naturally to most cats, there are the occasional few that need a bit of help.

If he simply jumps out of the box, that’s OK. It’s just a reminder to let him know it’s there. When you see him using the litter box, praise him by petting him a lot, talking to him and a little piece of his favorite treat could only be beneficial. On the other hand, if he has an accident on your carpet, don’t yell at him just ignore him. Clean it up thoroughly to remove any remnants of urine or feces odor that would attract him to do it there again. With little patience and reward system it won’t take him long to master the concept of using his litter box.

SCRATCHING FURNITURE

For cats, scratching is a natural thing to do, and necessary too. It not only feels good on their claws, it helps to keep them filed down and marks the territory with their scent. You should always provide your cat with an outlet for scratching.

Sometimes your cat will favor an object such as and to no surprise your couch, speakers or a favorite rug. Usually, it’s just one or two objects he will get his claws at. It’s up to you then to make his favorite scratching object unappealing to him.

All cats are different, some do not like the feel of two-sided sticky tape, and a citrus or menthol scent repels others. You could also try covering his selected scratching spot with some sort of netting or loosely knitted fabric. Although this may not be the most attractive decor in your house, remember that it’s only temporary. Cats do not like to get their nails snagged on anything and this could detour him.

If you are trying to get your cat to use that scratching post you bought him, make it attractive for him. Place it in a location where he feels comfortable, rub it down with some catnip, or you could buy a catnip spray to make it more appealing.

AGGRESSION

It may be cute when you and your new kitten are playing and at 8 weeks old he’s biting and scratching your hand and tearing up anything he can get his little claws on. As time goes by though, and your cute little kitten turns into a 10-pound cat, things could seem a whole lot different! So, it is important to detour any bad behavior as early as possible.

When it comes to cat aggression, there is most definitely a difference between normal behavior and behavior that you want to curve. For example, it is perfectly normal and acceptable that a cat will bite and scratch out of self-defense, when attacked or forced to do something he fears.

However, when you’re walking through the comfort of your own home and all of a sudden your cat leaps out from behind a door and scratches or bites your ankles hard, this is not acceptable. This kind of attacks can have a number of reasons. The cat could be playing out his predatory hunting instincts, or is frustrated and angry because of something as simple as having no food in his dish. He may simply be feeling bored or left out and this is his way to ask for your attention. Never allow your cat to play with you in an aggressive way!

While pouncing and biting softly are normal actions when a cat is playing, vicious attacks are not. They are the kind of attacks that could send somebody to an emergency room. In some cases, vicious outbursts can be seen in cats that haven’t been socialized properly while they were kittens. Your cat could also have a painful condition you may be unaware of, or an undetected neurological problem, so if your cat suddenly starts to exhibit unexplained outburst of aggression, it is important that you have him examined by a vet to make sure there’s actually nothing physically wrong with him.

In the majority of healthy cats, biting is an action that is developed by miscommunication, or a learned habit. With a little persistence and patience though, this habit can easily be broken over time.

Cats are intelligent animals and can learn fast. Remember, they learn by praise and reward - stick to this law and the two of you will have many years of happiness together.

There’s nothing strange about taking a dog for a walk, but taking a cat, well that’s a whole new ballgame. Though taking a cat for a walk is not as difficult as it may seem. With a little patience and a very secure cat harness, it is possible.

Many people believe that cats should be kept indoor at all times, so our precious wildlife is protected. Cats can be notorious killers of small animals, and keeping them indoors is a great way to keep them under control. But do we know if cats are capable of missing the outdoors? Are we depriving them of some inbuilt instinct to hunt and capture their prey?

An easy way to overcome this is to let our cats outdoors, but only if they are fully under control. There are a few steps to take that will eventually allow you to take your cat outdoors, in a safe and secure manner.

Start by purchasing a cat harness and lead. These are available from your local veterinary surgery or pet supply store. If they don’t have any in stock you can also use a very small dog harness, the size that is appropriate for a Chihuahua.

Introduce the harness to the cat slowly, leaving it near its bed and food bowls on a regular basis, over a period of days. Attempt to put the harness on the cat when it no longer appears interested in it. Continue putting the harness on for a two week period, until the cat accepts the harness as part of the daily routine.

The final step is to lead the cat outside, in small bursts only, for just a few seconds at a time. Each day, increase the amount of time spent outside. After a week or two of this, your cat should be very comfortable with the harness and with being outside.

If you have reached this step, congratulations. You can now start to slowly walk your cat for short distances. Soon enough your cat will be sitting at the front door waiting for you to take it for a walk.

Walking your cat is a great way to relieve their boredom and give them some exercise at the same time. It can stimulate their senses, exercise their body and hopefully save some of your household furniture from scratches. Give it a go, your cat will thank you for it.

Fleas are by far the most common external parasites cat owners may have to deal with. Fleas are not only extremely annoying to your cat, causing discomfort and irritation; they can also cause anemia in heavily infested kittens, pass on tapeworms (Dypilidium caninum) and trigger severe allergic skin reactions in hypersensitive animals.

Feline flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) or hypersensitivity to flea saliva is on the top of the list of skin disorders seen in veterinary clinics. Cat owners are often taken by surprise when their cat is diagnosed with FAD.

“But he hasn’t got any fleas!”

In allergic cats, a single fleabite can cause a hypersensitivity reaction that can persist for many days or weeks! So it’s not uncommon for a cat with flea allergy to be free of fleas at the time of examination - fleas can be long time gone or there may be just one or two running around, and to find them in all that fur is not an easy task!

CLINICAL SIGNS of FAD

FAD can result in variety of skin lesions. In animals with a low degree of hypersensitivity mild skin irritation and scratching may be the only visible symptoms. Others will typically have ‘miliary dermatitis’, also known as feline eczema with scabs and multiple small crusty bumps (papules) with inflamed skin underneath.

These lesions are usually located at the rear end of the body, especially on the back and around the base of the tail. They can be extremely itchy and distressing for the cat. Many times hair loss can be seen with hairs typically broken off by licking. Constant licking, scratching and nibbling leads to secondary skin irritation and self-mutilation.

In some cases, flea allergy can present as one or two raised red-raw linear or circular lesions referred to as eosinophilic plaque or granuloma.

TREATMENTS

1. If your cat shows any signs of skin problems, have him checked over by your veterinarian. There are number of diseases which can have very similar clinical manifestations, for example food allergy, atopic dermatitis and some auto-immune disorders.

If the skin inflammation and self-trauma is severe, your vet may need to treat the cat with anti-inflammatory drugs (usually corticosteroids) to stop irritation and prevent further skin damage.

2. Treat your cat PLUS all in-contact pets with an insecticidal product which kills adult fleas and preferably also has a residual action (stays on the body for a longer period killing any new fleas jumping on animal). New generation insecticides such as Frontline (fipronil), Stronghold (selamectin) and Advantage (imidacloprid) are safe, efficient and easy to apply. Older products containing pyrethroids are less suitable for cats due to their potential toxicity.

Cats with flea allergy should be treated at regular intervals, usually once a month to prevent any new fleabites. This is especially important if your cat or any other in-contact pets have access to outdoor environment.

3. Equally important is to treat your house. Flea products applied on pets will only kill the adult fleas, not the eggs. Eggs fall on your carpets and hatch out in new fleas if the conditions are favorable - this can take anything from 16 days to more then a year!

If you decide to treat your house yourself, you can purchase a product for environmental flea control from pet shops, supermarkets or veterinarians. You also could hire a professional service to do the house treatment for you. Although more costly, it saves you the hassle and the effect lasts longer.

NEVER use the house spray on your cat!

4. As a first aid to relieve itchy and dry skin, you can use topical remedies such as soothing Aloe Vera gel, anti-inflammatory Calendula ointment or Tee Tree oil. However, cats have tendency to lick it of their skin almost straight away. Putting a lampshade can prevent this or ‘Elizabethan’ collar on your cat. He may not like it but the collar will also stop him ‘chewing’ and further damaging his skin.

5. Give your cat a worming treatment, which is effective against tapeworms such as Drontal for cats containing praziquantel.

It is advisable to treat your cat with a suitable insecticidal flea product at regular intervals even if you don’t see any creatures on him. This way you can prevent many potential problems fleas may cause.

Today cat lovers the world over are turning more towards natural herbal remedies and nutritional supplements for common everyday health ailments affecting their feline family members.

A natural approach to our cats health concerns is a viable adjunct to any conventional veterinarian approach. And, just as with humans, the use of herbs and dietary supplementation can benefit your cat in many ways where a more conventional approach, with associated risks and side effects might not.

While obviously having many anatomical differences and specific health concerns, many of the herbs that could be prescribed for a human can also be prescribed for cats and animals in general.

Most commonly herbal supplements are taken as liquid or powder that can easily be added to your cats’ food or water. Dosages are relatively small so usually little resistance is encountered when administering a remedy or supplement.

What follows are a few of the more common conditions that can affect your cat that are easily treated at home with natural remedies. But as we are constantly reminded, if symptoms persist please see your doctor, or vet, as the case may be.

Flea allergies are a common complaint for cats. Cats with this specific allergy have a problem dealing with the saliva from the fleas bite. A single bite from a flea can create an allergy like reaction in your cat that can last for many days if not weeks.

Itching is the obvious issue here, with hair loss from scratching being a very common secondary problem. The conventional approach offers flea rinses and shampoos as well as internal medication and sometimes in severe cases a prescription medication is needed. While sometimes necessary, toxicity can be an issue with side effects often resulting.

But there is a lot that can be done naturally before things get to this point.

Topically you can apply Tea Tree oil to the site of the problem. Make sure you use an animal strength product. Oil that is too concentrated can cause sickness and possibly death from the oil your cat may ingest while grooming.

Today there are many animal related products that are available, so you won’t have any problem getting an appropriate strength Tea Tree oil.

Internally Evening Primrose Oil (typically given in capsule form although it can be easily added to food) can be taken. Fish oil is another very useful supplement that has the added benefit of being used for years as a natural fur ball solution. Fish oil can be easily added to food.

Additionally, Aloe Vera gel can be very effective when applied to dry and scaly areas. And as a preventative to keep the biting bugs at bay, Garlic oil (1 capsule added to food: one per week) works very effectively.

With any skin problem we need to make sure that no further irritation occurs. Make sure to use only natural shampoos and soaps or soap alternatives (Sorbelene for example). Your health food store or vet will be able to help here.

Urinary tract infection (UTI) in cats is another common health concern. You can usually spot this by your cats’ reluctance to use the litter tray. Here your cat has formed an association with painful urination and the litter tray. If your cat begins to urinate in unusual places, then it may be a symptom of this condition. To confirm the diagnosis you must get a urine sample analyzed.

There are several herbs that can be used to treat the painful inflammation and infection associated with this condition.

Couchgrass is a very powerful cleansing and tonifying herb that is often used in UTI. It has a strong anti-inflammatory and anti bacterial action and is a much used remedy for conditions such as urethritis and cystitis.

This remedy can be administered as a commercially prepared tincture or as a tea that in both cases can be easily added to food or water.

Alternatively you can use herbs such as Echinacea and Golden Seal that are renowned for their strong anti-biotic like action.

UTI in your cat can be a serious problem so be advised by your vet and get it diagnosed quickly if the remedies mentioned do not show some improvement within a few days.

Intestinal parasites (worms) are a common cause of digestive problems in cats. If you notice the appearance of small white seed like particles in your cats feces, than you can be pretty sure your cat has tapeworms.

Roundworms also commonly occur in cats, and are usually easily spotted in your cats’ vomit or feces. In sufficient quantity, roundworm, can obstruct the intestine to the point of being life threatening.

A very common and effective treatment for parasites is Garlic oil. You can add the oil to cat food or you can also give fresh garlic by crushing a clove into the cat food. This can be used daily although 3-4 times a week is usually enough. Make sure to check for parasites in the feces and to get to the vet if the problem persists.

For general, non-parasite based, digestive and bowel disturbances (vomiting and diarrhea for example), powdered slippery elm bark is the remedy of choice.

Slippery elm lines the bowel and has a very calming affect on the whole gastro intestinal tract. It is a very cheap, easily obtained herb, and should be in all medicine cabinets.

At the first sign of any gut problem use of slippery elm bark will show an almost instant positive result.

We have only looked briefly here at a few of the main health concerns for cats. Whatever the health concern your cat may be experiencing, know that there are many, potentially very helpful, herbal remedies and nutritional supplements that can help without the side effects of many conventional drug medications.

Obviously this is not saying that veterinarian intervention is not needed, far from it. Strong medications and surgery are often needed to save the life of our cats.

What we need to do as cat owners is to learn as much as we can about our animals and the possible solutions that exist for their health problems. Part of that knowledgebase should be, not only a familiarity with basic preventative measures and natural remedies that can be used to stop small problems becoming big problems, but also the knowledge and understanding of what to do when these natural remedies do not work.

Fortunately for most of us the most pressing health concerns for our cats are quality of life issues rather than life threatening ones. By having a basic knowledge of natural remedies we can, not only help our cats feel better now, we can also possibly help prevent minor health concerns becoming major health issues.

Cats are fastidious animals. They like things clean and apparently one thing they like clean the most is themselves. Therefore they spend an excess amount of time just grooming. The act of licking themselves helps to untangle and remove loose hair. Their tongues are specifically made for the task. They are covered with little bumps and toward the center of the tongue is tiny barb-like bumps that act to snag the hair. Unfortunately, this habit of grooming can lead to the formation of hairballs.

Cats are unable to digest the hair they swallow. However, they are able to have the hair pass through the digestive system in small amounts. A problem is caused if the cat is most likely low on fiber, which renders it incapable of passing the hair. The hair builds up and forms a hairball. The hairball can develop either in the stomach or toward the back of the throat.

The distressed cat begins to cough and attempts to throw-up the hairball. For the loving cat owner, the gagging and retching is worrisome not to mention the annoying cleanup afterwards. While the occasional hairball is probably nothing to be too alarmed about, frequent hairballs could be a cause for concern. Constant hairballs can result in digestive track troubles such as loss of appetite and constipation.

You cannot eliminate your cat from swallowing all its loose hair. However, there are actions you can take and natural remedies along with commercial products that you can use. The best way is combing or brushing your cat to prevent swallowing as much hair as possible in the first place. Longhaired cats should be combed or brushed daily and shorthairs probably only require it once or twice a week.

If your cat needs more assistance with its hairballs, there are commercial products that can be applied to the top of its front paws. The cat will attempt to lick these off; which will aid in the hair passing through the digestive system. People have used other similar lubricants such as Crisco All Vegetable Shortening, mayonnaise or butter as a substitute to these store bought products. Yet be careful, because the use of these can cause other digestive problems. Then again, some people have used Vaseline though this also should be applied only occasionally. It is recommended that you check with your veterinarian on the use, frequency and amount of any of these products before administering them to your cat.

You may also feed your cat specially made cat food diets and treats that are intended to prevent the development of hairballs. Another interesting solution is to mix in about a teaspoon of canned pumpkin to your cat’s normal food. One more method used as a preventive is to feed your cat grass a couple of times a week. You can grow the grass indoors. Rye, wheat or oat grasses are the best types to use and can be purchased at pet stores or on the Internet. Do not feed your cat grass from a chemically treated lawn.

Still, it must be noted that cats will throw-up for various reasons. Some of these may be from serious underlying conditions. Therefore before attempting any of these remedies, it is advised that you consult with your veterinarian to rule out any other illness and to see which, if any of these solutions should be tried. Along with your vet’s help and one or more of these suggestions, it is possible that your cat will be able to live virtually hairball free.

Ear mite infestation is not an unusual issue in cats. Since the ears are one of the more susceptible parts of a cat, this causes them to be predisposed to ear mite infestation. Typically, discarded cats and juvenile cats are more afflicted by mites than healthy mature cats who are slightly more resistive to them. Whenever they are present, a cat may be plagued with possibly hundreds or thousand of ear mites.

Ear mites are transmitted with ease by close contact among pets. So you can expect that if one of your cats have contracted them, it is likely that the mites have or will spread to your other cats. As a result, a mother cat is able to easily infect her litter of kittens. Consequently, it is important to treat each animal in the home for ear mites.

If an appropriate remedy is administered at the first sign of ear mites, their presence does not have to be a huge crisis. The trouble lies once the condition is allowed to continue to where a resulting bacterial or yeast infection occurs. Ear mites will not normally rupture the eardrum, but with a serious secondary infection it could cause a rupture or other problems. A serious case of mites therefore will need a good cleansing of the ears by a veterinarian.

Cat ear mites are white microscopic organisms that are scarcely discernible with the eye. Otodectes are the type of feline ear mites mainly found inhabiting the ear. What is worse is that the mites are not only confined to inhabiting the ear canal of cats. They are capable of scattering to various regions of the feline body. Ear mites will not dig down and nestle into the skin like some ticks. Instead the mites travel inside the ear and live off skin and discharge leaving the ear lining sore. To protect the cat’s ear, the biological reaction is to create additional earwax.

It is helpful to know the four different developmental stages of these mites when attempting to rid them from a suffering kitty. The stages require three weeks to complete, beginning as an egg and ending as a full-grown adult. The first stage is as an egg. Stage two is when the larvae emerge four days after being laid. The larvae will nourish themselves for a while, eventually molting into stage three, the nymph. The nymph stage contains two sub-stages, the protonymph and then the deutonymph. Each sub-stage consists of a phase of feeding with a period during which they molt. Throughout the deutonymph sub-stage the nymph does not have a gender, even so it will actually breed with a mature male. Then should it evolve into a female, she will already possess eggs and begin laying them. Otherwise if it turns into a male, he will merely breed with other deutonymphs. The final stage is the adult, which survives about another 60 days. During her lifetime, an adult female might deposit eggs in the cat’s ear every day starting the whole process over and over.

Since mites are difficult to see, how do you know if your cat has them? A few of the symptoms your cat may display are head shaking or fervent scratching of its ears. Inspecting the ears may prove to find reddish brown waste matter that looks like coffee grounds left by the mites. There may also be a foul smell. An experiment you can try is to prompt a reflex by massaging near the cat’s ear that stimulates scratching actions with its rear legs. This rarely happens in uninfected cats. Astonishingly, there are cats that will not demonstrate any discernible evidence of irritation or pain, so a veterinarian may need to do a more thorough examination.

Today eradicating cat ear mites does not have to be an overwhelming challenge. Routine cleansing of the ears will help in controlling mites. Your veterinarian is able to prescribe or recommend various treatments. Some will kill the mite eggs. There are monthly topical remedies to wipe out mites on the feline body too. It is wise to have your other pets examined by your vet also and have them undergo the treatment that he suggests.

Understanding the dangers of permitting mites to establish an infestation makes managing mites a significant factor of cat care to the responsible cat owner. Observing your cat and looking out for any telltale symptoms should help alert you to an infestation. Developing proper grooming habits by devoting additional tending to your cat’s ears will help in eliminating mites.

Disclaimer - Information in this article is just for educational or entertainment purposes only. It does not distribute medical or expert counsel, nor does it recommend any action, tactic or remedy that should be tried without the recommendation of a professional. Information changes constantly, therefore what was considered appropriate yesterday, may no longer be true today.

Cat weight loss is a broad subject which covers two diametrically opposite problems, one problem is when a cat is losing too much weight and needs to gain weight and stop the cause of the weight loss, and the other problem is when a cat is overweight and needs to lose weight. Both of these are a potential worry for cat owners and any cat owner will know the worry they have if their cat is ill or could potentially have a health problem. This article discusses only the problem of underweight cats.

Underweight cat problems are difficult to deal with and can cause a lot of anxiety for cat owners. The easiest and quickest thing you can do is take your cat down to the local veterinarian and ask for a complete check-up, but this will mean an immediate extra expense (sometimes quite high) which may not have been necessary; firstly you could do some of the basic checks that the vet would do:

. Feel the cat along its spine and ribs. If you can’t easily feel the spine then your cat is probably not seriously under-weight.

. What age is the cat? Cats, like Humans, often tend to lose some weight as they get older.

. Has she recently lost weight or is she naturally thin? Recent weight loss is a cause for concern.

. Is she very active or is she sluggish? If she is very active then it is unlikely there is much cause for concern.

. Maybe she just can’t cope with one-a-day large meals. Perhaps try putting her on to 2 small meals a day and see if that shows any improvement.

. Has she recently been put on new medication which may not be agreeing with her?

. Have you recently acquired your cat as a kitten? Is it possible that you have changed her diet too quickly from what she had been used to before she came to your home? It is necessary to gradually change the diet to what you think is the best diet, as otherwise a kitten could easily get diarrhea and become weak and emaciated very quickly.

. Have you tried feeding your cat jars of baby food which contain chicken? If so, be sure to check that it does not contain onion which is poisonous to cats.

. Has she one or more bad teeth that are causing her problems with eating?

Bad Teeth

Try examining her teeth as best as you can just to get a feel for what sort of condition they appear to be in. If they are poor or look very bad, then that is most likely the cause of the problem and she will need your help to cope with this. You can mix some wet kitten food with her ordinary food and pick up powder with nutrients from a pet store and then mix water with it. Also try taking dry cat food, and add a can of tuna which is stored in mineral water, making sure to leave quite a lot of the tuna water in it.

Talk to a Vet

If it is not immediately apparent what is causing the problem then it is advisable to talk to your vet. There is some prescription cat food that the vet might recommend called Hills Prescription A/D which is very good but a bit pricey. There is also a high calorie paste obtainable from the vet that will help your cat gain back some weight. Your vet might also recommend powdered kitten milk.

There is a condition called Vestibular Syndrome which can act up periodically whereby a cat becomes dizzy and may vomit almost continuously; if this happens, the vet may recommend Dramamine, which is generally used to control motion sickness, and to feed her a milk replacement formula via syringe to give her the required nutrients until the vomiting subsides.

Other possible causes of bad weight loss in cats are hyperthyroidism, intestinal parasites, diabetes, and kidney failure in older cats; the vet will, for sure, also check your cat’s teeth.

If you have difficulty in paying the vet’s high fees, you might find that there is some charitable organization in your country that might be able to help out somewhat. In the UK, there is the RSPCA, Cats Protection League, PDSA, Blue Cross, etc.

Cats make wonderful pets, and are much loved family members in countless homes around the world. However, one of the most common allergic reactions in humans occurs in response to the presence of a cat.

The most typical symptoms of an allergy to cats resemble the symptoms of asthma, in that breathing difficulties develop. The sufferer may wheeze, cough and sneeze, and often will experience watery eyes and itching sensations. Another frequent symptom of an allergy to cats is when cat scratches flare up as red welts in the skin surrounding the wound.

For many people showing an allergy to cats, the allergic reaction on first encountering a cat are minor. Perhaps the cat has just arrived in the home, or perhaps the person is a visitor to the home where the cat lives. If the reaction is not too inconvenient, chances are the person will soon naturally develop an immunity and the symptoms will pass. This will often happen when the cat arrives as a small kitten and immunity develops before it is fully grown. In the meantime, the situation may be quite tolerable if they keep their distance from the cat.

For a small proportion of the population, the allergic reaction to cats may be quite disabling. The symptoms are usually eased by taking antihistamine tablets that can be obtained in most countries without a prescription. This relief may, however, be temporary. Alright if you are just visiting the place where the cat lives for a few days, but probably not the best solution when sharing the home with the cat for an extended time.

Longer term solutions are available by treating the allergy medically. A doctor may run tests to confirm the source of the allergic reactions and prescribe a medication solution, often consisting of a series of injections to progressively build up immunity. The allergic reaction to a cat may just be a manifestation of that person’s susceptibility to a number of sources of allergies, and a good thing to have discovered and treated.

Not everyone is willing to accept a medical solution, and perhaps even that will not work. The question arises as to whether the problem can be solved by treating the cat.

The main cause of the allergic reaction is the small flakes of skin or dander that a cat will naturally shed into its fur and surroundings. The reaction comes when the dander in the environment of the home touches the person’s skin, and especially when it is drawn into the respiratory system. This, of course, will be present wherever the cat goes, and little can be done about it apart from making sure the cat is healthy and clean, and the house is kept clean, in order to minimize the problem. Even a regularly bathed cat will still shed dander.

Another known source of the allergic reaction is the saliva of the cat, which is transferred to its fur during natural grooming behavior. Cats will also leave traces of saliva around the home as they rub against furniture and other places as part of their instinctive habit of marking their territory. Inevitably a person sharing the home with the cat will eventually come into contact with cat saliva residues. In practice there is little that can be done to stop a cat’s natural behavior.

The ultimate solution to a persistent allergic reaction to a cat is is to not have a cat. This can be a difficult solution in a family where the pet is much loved, and not everyone experiences the allergic reaction. Taking a little time to allow immunity to develop, or seeking a medical solution, can avoid the anguish of parting with a pet.

Cats have amazing claws that resemble sharp little hooks. When spread out they look very like the talons of an eagle or a hawk.

The trouble is that these claws can damage furniture, curtains and carpets where the cat lives, which can become a big concern for some owners. Some cat owners consider the question of having their cat’s claws removed to eliminate this problem. However, de-clawing a cat is a serious surgical operation, and not a matter to be taken lightly.

Cats use their claws constantly as they move around. They provide a source of traction, especially when a cat wants to accelerate, move or turn quickly. When chasing a toy in play, just as when chasing its prey, a cat relies on its claws as a source of grip when rapidly changing direction.

A cat’s claws are vital when it climbs a tree or fence, and, when combined with its natural ability to leap high off the ground, enable it to quickly scamper up to considerable heights. Without claws, a cat’s ability to climb is greatly reduced, which some owners may see as a good thing, especially if their cat is given to climbing curtains!

Cats rely heavily on their claws when hunting, and are even able to leap up and use them to hook into and pluck a low flying bird from the air. Equally, cats use their claws as their main weapon of defense when defending themselves against other cats or dogs or even against humans when they feel threatened.

A more mundane role for a cat’s claws is to be seen when they tidy up after themselves when going about their toiletries, and when grooming and scratching themselves.

A cat without claws is therefore at a big disadvantage when going about its daily life, and is likely to be clumsy and at risk of hurting itself or being unable to defend itself. Its naturally clean behavior may become compromised.

You may find slivers of claws about your home, as cats shed their rapidly growing claws in layers or husks to constantly keep them fresh and sharp in the face of constant usage and wear. This process is one of the main reasons cats like to stretch out and claw at things to encourage the renewal of their claws.

Most cat owners greatly reduce the scratching damage done by their cat in their home by providing a carpet covered scratch pole or a scratch pad. With a little encouragement cats usually quickly learn to use these places to sharpen their claws instead of valuable furniture. Some smart owners almost instantly attract their cats to use them by rubbing them with fresh or dried cat mint, which is often stocked at pet shops for this purpose.

Trimming the sharp tips off a cat’s front claws is another way to reduce the damage that a cat may do, though this practice can discourage the natural shedding of the claw’s layers and sometimes lead to infection.

With a little training, most cats will also quickly learn to not climb furniture and curtains. Especially if a cat is given access to outdoor areas to play, the majority of cat owners are able to enjoy owning both special pieces of furniture and a cat without any serious concerns.

Taking the further step of surgically removing the claws of a cat is usually an extreme measure that is not necessary. It almost always will leave a cat at a big disadvantage when going about its daily life. The behavior and temperament of a cat may be radically changed by this operation, often including leaving the cat depressed, more aggressive and more likely to bite. For these reasons, many veterinarians are reluctant to undertake the operation unless there is a medical justification.

Owners with a calm and friendly relationship with their cat, and who provide a place for the cat to scratch, rarely feel the need to go as far as having their cat’s claws removed.